(Editor’s Note: This is part of a series of travel correspondence from Dan as he travels around southeast Asia. Click the “continued” link to read the full message.)

July 16, 2005

Greetings from Luang Prabang!

I apologize in advance for the awful use of local currency in this email, but you can all do the math. $1 = 40 Baht = 10,000 Kip. Also, this keyboard is terrible, but what do you expect for internet at 100 Kip per minute?

We left Chiang Khong by slow boat, and spent two days on the Mekong river. Smells are the dominant sense. The river is full of silt, and runs brown. The fragrance is a quarter of the smell of a farm. Rich earth, animals, waste. The hills loom high around us, and the mountains beyond that. Everything is lush and green. Square patches of slash-and-burn farm abound, each with its own farmhouse, and square patches of scrub brush show where farmers were years ago.

For our one night stop, we landed at Pak Beng. Here, I realized that we are in sync with some travelers we met in Chiang Khong. Marcus (23, UK, normal, remember?) and I were having dinner and drinks at a restaurant run by a Finnish man and a Thai woman in Chiang Khong when we met David, Eva, and Simone. David is Swiss, and the two girls are Austrian. Hell of a lot of fun. Chiang Khong works on an interesting system: slowness. People order dinner for a particular time, then return to eat. They had ordered dinner for 9 pm, so they went back, and we got a bunch of our friends from our guesthouse, wandering the streets with an open beer in my hand. Chiang Khong has no closing time. The Finn served us until we were falling over. At 3 am we staggered back (no beers in hand) and settled down for our 7 am wakeup call.
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