(Editor’s Note: This is part of a series of travel correspondence from Dan as he travels around southeast Asia. Click the “continued” link to read the full message.)

July 9, 2005

Hello from Bangkok!

Over here, a few people have expressed sympathy to me for London bombings. They’ve also been oblivious to the difference between the United States and Britain. But onto the fun.

Last night, I sat ringside at the Muay Thai (kickboxing) matches. First row. All hail the mighty exchange rate. I was looking forward to hearing the chatter from the corner. But I’m dumb…they’re all speaking Thai! Each fighter’s friends/team had a small corral right next to me where they could cheer from the good seats. I saw the Thai Jaime Carrillo, but didn’t get my camera out in time.

There were 11 fights on the card, 2 Western boxing exhibitions and 9 Muay Thai. Two knockouts in Muay Thai, both spectacular knee-crumpling hits. The first resulted in the winner celebrating, as expected. But the other match ended differently. As the loser crumpled, the winner had a look of horror on his face, and immediately came around to check on his opponent. He helped his opponent to his feet, and took him from the ring with care.

Thailand has been an overwhelming experience. All my senses are in overdrive. The heat, the smells, the sounds, the amazing sights. When this afternoon’s monsoon rains were approaching, I was visiting the Grand Palace and shrine of the emerald Buddha. Bells with large clappers were hung from the awnings of the shrine. In a light wind, they were silent. But in the monsoon, they rang over and again. As the rain came beating down, I stepped into the shrine. Breathtaking.

Bangkok has provided a few laughs. My driver from the airport was showing me sights, this Buddhist temple, that king’s temple, then he points to the right and says that it’s the American temple. It was a McDonalds.

For what it’s worth, short Thai words look similar to Hebrew. Which makes it even more odd that the Bangkok Chabad house is right across from my hotel. And an Israeli restaurant. Down the street was a schwarma stand operated by a Thai lady.

Thai massage, invigorating and stretching, could be the next big thing for athletes with the right marketing. You stay dressed, and that gives the masseuse some more liberties. Jake could grab a leg, throw it over his shoulder, and pull to stretch my knee, without any concern for my modesty. Lots of slapping, pulling, popping and tugging. The massage is very demanding on the masseuse, as he was leaning with his elbows and knees. We chatted as he worked, and I talked about my Muay Thai experience. He pointed to his leg, which was holding my arm in some Figure-4 wrestling move, and said “Muay Thai? Muay Thai.” Muay is the Thai word for leg.

Off to meet my group. Thanks for the great responses, and yes, I’m taking care of myself. I’ve learned a new word: tout. A tout is a low-grade scam artist, attempting to divert you from what you want (walking to the Grand Palace) in order to take you to alternative attractions, so you’ll buy something there. In other words, he’s an internet advertisement. One tout tried to convince me that the Grand Palace was closed for a Buddhist holiday. When I kept walking, he told me that only Thais were allowed in. When I said I’d take pictures of the outside, he told me that the place was surrounded by police and army. But he knew of a wonderful shrine, open only once a year, that was open a few blocks away. Free of charge. No thanks buddy, I’ll take my chance with the temple. Which was open. But then I had to pay 5 Bhat to pee. Some touts you can’t avoid.

Dan